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February 12, 2005

School begins...

Classes have started, so life feels as if it has returned to some sense of normalcy, except that everything is new.

I have been showing up to quite a few classes. Among other things, I like the "numbering" system for classes here.

NUT (Topics in Number Theory) is the more advanced of the number theory classes, but I've actually seen almost all of the topics listed as prerequisite in a combination of discrete math and algebra classes. We've been reviewing complex numbers and quadratic reciprocity. I'll probably take it, in the hopes that applying complex analysis to number theory sounds as awesome as I think it is. One of the professors for the beginning number theory class is apparently extremely quirky and hilarious and in love with Diane already. I guess I'm missing out.

TOP (Introduction to Topology) is the only course that obviously breaks from the CS-themed math that I planned to take here, though I'm sure some of you could tell me about cool applications to CS. There's a more advanced algebraic topology class that claims only to have real analysis as a prerequisite, but I looked at the first homework assignment and was completely lost. So introductory it is for me. It looks like most of the course is setting up the groundwork for sexier courses later, but at the same time it'll probably put to use (and then, the professor claims, throw away) all the metric spaces that I suffered through in real analysis. I might take it in the hopes that I get to learn about manifolds.

HAM (Historical Aspects of Mathematics) is actually a humanities class. This was apparent, well, first from the schedule, and second from the presence of (gasp) non-math people in the class. That's right, it's cross-registered with McDaniels College, a school whose Budapest program takes up an entire floor of College International. The non-math people consisted of three heavily made-up girls who sat together in the back of the class and talked non-stop, and one isolated hipster-looking guy off to the side. If their presence wasn't obvious enough from the distinctly different aura they gave off (or perhaps it was just the make-up), they piped up immediately to ask the professor if there was going to be any... math... in the class.

As for the professor, he was hilarious. He told us he came from the best university in Hungary, three hours from Budapest. Then he explained why we should stay in the class: 1. "You can learn a lot from me. If a young guy says that, he's just trying to sell himself. But me, I'm 60. I'm old, so it's the truth." (this was actually the answer to the afore-mentioned question) and 2. "In the US, they gave me a salary 12 times more than my salary in Hungary. So I decided I will help however I can. At my home university, of German students, 20% will fail. Of English students, 40% will fail. Of Hungarian students, 30% will fail. But you, 100% chance you will pass. Last year, 100% of students get an A."

The lecture itself was on the origin and history of measurement, which he told us was the inspiration for mathematics and scientific discovery. It was interesting, but I was suffering in a three-hour lecture after four straight hours of math lecture, and left halfway through. I don't think I need an easy-A humanities course. Apparently the last hour tied together the random threads he had begun in the first one (Fahrenheit, Celsius, Kelvin, the origin of the word meter, Babylonian miles and measurements of hours and minutes, our base-60 time system, and the shifting of the Roman calendar) into an awesome conclusion.

GTT (Graph Theory) contained a lot of proofs by picture. Right now it's all basic definitions and theorems on trees. I feel like a lot of the topics will either be review from CS courses (basic notions, Hamiltonian cycles, cliques, bipartite matchings, network flows, probabilistic method) or last summer (chromatic number, planarity, Ramsey theorems). I could use a more formal treatment of a lot of these topics, and it's certainly fun, but at the same time it will be much less new than some other courses. Waffling. I'll need to try the homework.

C&P (Conjecture & Proof) is the classic "only in Budapest" class. The syllabus: proofs of non-existence, proofs of existence. The class is two to three times larger than any other of my classes, about 30 students, or more than half the entire program. The first couple lectures, we did: 1. you can't remove diagonally opposite corners of a chessboard and tile it with two-squre dominoes, 2. the "standard" proof, an analytic proof, and a geometric proof of the irrationality of root 2, 3. two proofs of Sperner's Lemma, 4. using Sperner's Lemma to prove Brower's Fixed Point Theorem, and 5. Gallai's proof of Sylvester's problem (if you have finitely many points which are not all co-linear there is a line which contains exactly 2). Totally awesome. The homework isn't due until next Thursday, but it was the first one I started.

HUN2A (Hungarian Language, focus on reading and writing). Not many people are continuing on with a language course. In this one, we're supposed to keep a diary in Hungarian and translate a short book.

I wrote a summary of my experience with Hungarian so far in an email to Hixie:

> Sixteen cases?!?!?! Good god. Give up now. :-P

Yeah, so there's your standard nominative, accusative, genitive, dative, and so on... and then there's a whole system of directional suffixes corresponding approximately to {from, at, to} x {in, on, by}, except that in addition these all correspond to our normal prepositions like "about" or "with" as well. Plus there's random other suffixes for stuff like time. These are complemented by whole systems of prefixes for verbs, leading to such fun direct translations of sentences as "upsoar (I) the businto" (I got into the bus). Oh, did I mention that they usually delete personal pronouns, too?

The only (and I mean only) saving grace is that there's no gender. Of course, when I say no gender, I really mean no gender. The third person singlar pronoun is genderless. Which means that sometimes Hungarians learning English screw up the whole he/she thing when talking about men and women.

However, since only one form of each suffix would be far too few, there's this whole notion of "vowel harmony" which effectively takes the place of gender for complicating the endings. For the most part, if a word has the vowels a, o, or u in it, it has one kind of ending, and if it doesn't, it has the other. Except sometimes if there's an umlaut there's a third form for umlaut-words. And also, some words with the letter i act like the aou words, but not all of them.

CO2 (Combinatorics of Set Systems) is a pretty uniquely Hungarian subject. It is the more advanced of the combinatorics classes, but after looking through the course notes for Combinatorics 1, I think my CS experience in combinatorics is more than adequate. The lectures launched straight into hypergraphs, discussing dual graphs and Steiner systems. I was glad I've at least seen a Fano plane before. The whole subject seems to inspire yawns of "who cares?" from people hoping for different kinds of combinatorics, but *I* think it sounds like fun.

The biggest surprise of the week has been that I seem to have actually taken more math classes than the average student here. The answer, of course, is that I'm on my way to grad school while most kids here are juniors, but that doesn't quite work, since I'm less than halfway done with the number of required courses for a pure math major at Berkeley. This has led me to the realization that Berkeley actually does seem to be a pretty good school. Amazing.

The second biggest surprise of the week has been that I've started to hear back from graduate schools already. I wasn't expecting much until the end of the month. The news so far has been almost uniformly excellent. Among other things, I will be in New Jersey between Feb. 24 and 27.

It's been dumping snow all morning. We were planning to go to the city park to ice skate before going back to the Szechenyi baths. Hot tubbing in the snow.

The construction next door begins work at 8 am on Saturdays doing something that involves a lot of metal crashing into things.

I have begun sleeping with my radiator. It's my new favorite friend. It has solved the problem of me being too cold to sleep at night. The new bed arrangement has broken the feng shui of the room, but I think it's a worthwhile sacrifice.

The addition of internet access to our home has broken the quiet monotony of our evenings. The combination of the sun setting at 4:30, nearby stores being closed by 8, a lack of clocks in our apartment, and only each other and books to keep company made time seem to progress slowly at night. I would check the time, expecting it to be past midnight, and discover it was 9:30. This problem is no more, thanks to the advent of per-minute modem access and grad school anxiety which leads to the constant and excessive checking of email.

February 08, 2005

Venice, illustrated

Last-minute trip to Venice. I seem to be doing a lot of traveling on a whim these days.

When our flight landed in Milan, the weather was *balmy*. It must have been at least 15 C. This winter thing is destroying me. We made plans to start a Florence Semesters in Mathematics, or perhaps the Bahamas Semesters in Mathematics.

Also on our flight, or at least on the silly bus that took us from our plane to the actual terminal were three absolutely exquisite Italian women with nearly identical black leather calf-high boots and expensive-looking tans. They flirted with the security as we went through more metal detectors (Budapest's security must not be up to snuff) and made incredulous noises in Italian about having to remove their boots. I haven't seen any women like that in Budapest.

We arrived in Venice in mid-afternoon with no hotel reservations, no plans, and only Jonah's fat all-Europe guidebook for a reference. I didn't actually realize before arriving that Venice is actually an island in the middle of a lagoon, so that you have to take a bridge from the mainland to get there. Second, it is also almost entirely covered in stone. The very little green that is there is fenced-off and looks expensive. So much for Diane's grand plans to find a park to sleep in. Third, there are no cars anywhere except for a small area around the bridge to the mainland. And finally, it seems that Italy has banned smoking inside.

We promptly walked off in a random direction and lost ourselves until evening. As far as canals and beautiful buildings go, it was everything I could have hoped for. You can't walk very far before finding yourself crossing some adorable little bridge over an adorable little canal surrounded by adorable stone houses.

Many houses bordering canals had doorways leading directly to the water, yet few of them had boats tied anywhere nearby. I was somewhat puzzled.

We filled our first two days with wandering. The streets are as narrow and twisty as you like, making it exceedingly easy to lose yourself when that is what you want to do, and exceedingly difficult to find yourself on a map or guess the correct route somewhere even if you know exactly what direction you need to go. The first two nights, we lost our hotel. The second time, we were actually afraid we wouldn't find it again.

There's also the grand canal. The bridges across it make for nice pictures.

After the canals, the second major thing that Venice is famous for is pigeons. In San Marco square they sell little bags of feed for 1 euro to tourists who feel like being besieged by the most fearless pigeons I've ever seen.

On Saturday morning, the city changed. The tourists arrived for Carnevale. Sure, there were quite a few around before, but for the most part things felt pretty serene. No more. I've never felt so crowded in my life. Tourists everywhere, streaming in every which direction, speaking every sort of language. San Marco square filled with people.

Those cute little streets became bottlenecks for the hordes of people. I don't normally have a problem with crowds, but this time I honestly couldn't handle it.

The Carnevale bit itself was, well, not quite what I expected. For an idea of the ambiance, think of a cross between the Castro in San Francisco during Halloween, Paris in the middle of the summer (except there were quite a lot French people in Venice), and a Renaissance faire (to be more accurate there was a decidedly 18th-century bent). We did see people in fabulous costumes, but for every person with a fabulous costume, there were 50 tourists shoving each other out of the way to get a picture.

Many of the people in costumes just stood around in San Marco square to be photographed. We weren't quite sure who these people were: official city-sponsored people, Venetian residents with a passion for costuming, random tourists with a passion for costuming. A cafe on the border of the square advertised costumed happy hours, 45 euros for hot chocolate. Tourists lined up outside to photograph exquisitely costumed people sipping their expensive hot chocolate.

Costumes ranged from the rather spooky plain-masked abstract to incredible historically accurate outfits with full makeup and wigs to random Halloween-type affairs, particularly for kids. I'm sure if I had shown up in my full Renaissance nobles, picked up a random mask, and stood around for a day, I could have made it into thousands of people's vacation albums. The big thing to do seems to be to coordinate with all of your friends. We saw groups of at least 20 dalmatians, almost as many penguins, people in sombreros, fro wigs, and curlers and trashy makeup.

There were obviously real parties going on for people with money, and there was free music every night in San Marco square for the cheapskates. Jonah is the previously mentioned ballroom dancer. The first night was predominately salsa, the second swing, the third disco. So we danced. And crowds formed around us as various people filmed us or snapped pictures. Of us dancing sloppily in sneakers on concrete. Well, as the weekend progressed the thickening layer of confetti coating the ground made it easier to dance. I wonder how many people noticed that I don't even know how to lindy.

So that was that. The dancing crowds seemed to be rather into smashing bottles on the ground. Things ended early on Sunday. We spent all of Monday flying home. Budapest is gray and cold and nobody eats parmesan. We met a Chilean guy on the bus from the airport who was spending his summer break doing the backpacking through Europe thing, and had apparently just spent several days trying to get into Hungary after being turned back at the border.

February 02, 2005

Quickly...

We went to the baths last weekend. Totally awesome. Szechenyi bath is in the city park. It's bright yellow and looks like a baroque castle. In the middle are three steaming pools. The weather was gorgeous, crystal clear blue skies. We sat in the warmest of the pools outside and basked in the sun. I haven't worn a bikini in at least a decade. The outside air temperature was about freezing. An old man bumped into Alex and leered at him as he backed away. We watched old men play chess on pillars jutting into the water, but didn't see any of the floating chessboards we had been promised. That's ok, we'll be back.

Thank you to people who sent me emails on my birthday, I shall reply when I have more time. I informed Diane and the boys that it was my birthday, and they conspired to put me in the bath while they cooked me a goat cheese salad, pasta, and chocolate-dipped strawberries for dessert. Very sweet.

We're going to Venice this weekend. For Carnevale. That's right. Venice. I'll be back with pictures and hopefully more time on Monday.